Dynamite Hill Farms: Jerry Jondreau and Katy Bresette Giving Back
Written by: Quentin Glabus, I-Collective
Dynamite Hill Farms, is located just outside of L’Anse, MI off of Keweenaw Bay on Lake Superior of the 1842 Ceded Territory. What does this farm grow and offer one might ask? What makes them stand out, and sets them apart from any other farm or producer out there in North America? Well, let us take a moment and I will do my best to share with you WHO Dynamite Hill Farms are!!
Jerry Jondreau hails from the Wiikwedong, or the Keweenaw Bay Indian Community and Katy Bresette, a member of the Red Cliff Band of Lake Superior Ojibwe from the loon clan in Northern Wisconsin, are the wonderful people behind Dynamite Hill Farms. Along with their six children and volunteers, working by hand 30 acres of land, they harvest wild rice (manoomin), maple sugar, maple syrup, real maple vinegar and dehydrated Oneida white corn. Their products carry the American Indian Trademark, an international brand of authenticity from the Intertribal Agriculture Council that guarantees the product has been harvested and produced by tribally recognized food producers. Through intentional and Indigenous agriculture practices they are seeding, nurturing, producing and harvesting an environment that educates and gives back to the community.
This week, they opened up their sugar bush to start tapping maple trees to harvest the sap to be collected for maple production. But, before even touching a single tree, the community is invited to the farm to perform a ceremonial opening. This practice has been ongoing for the family and is a means of reconnecting and becoming educated from traditional ceremony and traditions. This is of essential importance, in a world where Western understanding is the norm, and traditional ways and practice are becoming less and less. Now, it is not uncommon for Indigenous people to feel uncomfortable, scared, or even embarrassed when asked a question of their own cultural ways, for lack of not knowing either their traditional language, knowledge or foodways. I for one, can attest to these complicated sentiments. But Jerry and Katy, through their work, and mind set of “We do not know everything and we TOO are learning, but let us share with you what we know” create a welcoming and nurturing environment, even through a friendly conversation over the phone.
Wild rice is one of Dynamite Hill Farms staple products that they harvest in Minnesota. Manoomin (wild rice) has a special relationship with the Ojibwe, as it ties them to the land, the water, and are practices that are taught and passed down through word of mouth, and stories. In today's market, this natural economy has become stolen, and by this, so too is the relationship of food. To most, food is something that is seen as means of sustainability for human life or curbing that craving you may have. But to Indigenous people, food is also language, food is bonding, and our ancestors and living relatives know that food and Indigenous foodways are important and worth fighting for. It was through this fight for our rights and to our land and ways, that led to negotiations of treaties that were signed long ago to protect our ways. Hunt, fish, forage, and harvest.
Jerry and Katy, through their farm, are in many ways, continuing this fight. In my conversation with Jerry and Katy, you can hear the pride, love, honour, and respect that they have, not just for the products that they are producing, but for the gift of returning back to the land and the reciprocal connections they are building in the process. By reconnecting with the land, they are highlighting the conversation of traditional economies and recognizing that none of us can do this on our own. Food producers and consumers will hopefully continue to acknowledge the need to identify and promote Indigenous producers and suppliers like Dynamite Hill Farms. This will continue to build Indigenous Food Sovereignty and increase the sustainability of these Indigenous farming models. Indigenous chefs know how important it is to be resilient and continue to be connected in our Indegenous foodways and ingredients, but one of the challenges faced by Indigenous chefs is access to and prioritization of using these traditional ingredients, supplied or produced by Indigenous suppliers like Dynamite Hill Farms. Yes, any chef can Talk the Talk, but how many actually Walk the Walk? This is all part of the Food Sovereignty battle, we are all a part of, will you accept this challenge to uplift and support Indigenous producers?
With many of us, we take for granted the teachings that are presented right in front of us. Whether it be something from school, a passing on the street, or a bird flying by. Jerry and Katy have learned that by taking a step back, reconnecting with the land, taking root, and learning from traditional ways, they already have the tools to continue to be educators. Perhaps, most importantly, they will continue creating food for thought in a most giving way. Jerry and Katy have and are, one dynamite duo to represent our past, and moving forward, through food.